"Wall Fish" in Somerset and beyond

WALL FISH. - Snails have long been recommended as a cure for tuberculosis, and in Somerset, in my younger days, it was quite common to meet with cases where this cure was applied.

I know, too, that in Bristol it was quite a usual practice for men to visit houses where ivy covered the walls to seek permission to search for wall fish, or wall fruit, as snails were often designated. Probably the custom is still in existence. Not long since an attempt was made in some quarters to make the snail a popular edible dish, but I have not heard it succeeded to any extent, as in France. Snail farming is said to be quite interesting once you can get over that slippery, slimy sort of feeling that every snail fancier must experience the first time he finds himself alone and unprotected in the midst of a few thousand real live snails.

Two years ago a note on snail eaters appeared in the "Herald." We were then told cooked snails were rather insipid, but are said to be as nutritious as calves' foot jelly when stewed in milk. Glass blowers in many parts of England have a firm belief in the efficacy of garden snails as a cure for consumption. Mr. Walter Raymond, in his "Book of Crafts and Character," devotes a chapter to the snail merchant who collects snails and they are described as tasting better than the best mutton.

Southey tells us that Maecenas of Cookery, Sir Kenelm Digby, who is remembered for so many odd things, was one of the persons who introduced the great shell snail (Helix Pomaria) into this country as a delicacy. He dispersed the breed about Gothurst, his seat near Newport Pragnel; but the merit of first importing it is due to Charles Howard, of the Arundel family.

Snails were sold in Covent Garden as a remedy for consumption. Fifteen years ago snails were sold in Swindon Market, being considered nourishing, especially in cases of consumption or after illness. The sort found most often is the common garden snail, Helix Aspersa.

Udal, in "Dorsetshire Folk-lore," says "The value of the snail for medicinal purposes is well known. Richard Jefferies, in his book, 'Round about a Great Estate' states that in Dorsetshire an extract of snails is sometimes prepared, and, mixed with rum, is rubbed into weak backs, or legs, especially of children. I myself have known of the use both internally and externally of the 'liquor' of snails, in West Dorset. I think this was used as a cure or palliative, for 'sore legs.'" -- W.G. Willis  Watson.

In the Taunton Courier, 10th June 1925.